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Carnival in Italy: parades, dances, traditional and magic masks
Nuovo canale
Carnival is a great occasion to visit Italy and enjoy the most interesting and funny traditions of this feast, the funniest feast of the year.
 
 

Venice is the queen of Carnival with concerts, shows, parades in the streets of the town, full of masks and tourists from all over the world. The carnival of Venice is famous in the world, because it is really special and mysterious. It was first mentioned in 1094, in a document that describes a feast made of funny games and dances, in the days before Lent. In that period the doge Vitale Falier ruled the town. The Carnival of Venice lasts around ten days: in the streets of the town there are parades, masks, games, and dances. Everything aims to celebrate the charm of a world made of dances, elegant parties, jokes, and romantic dates.

Ivrea, near Turin, celebrates Carnival with a special game, the orange battle, that takes place in the streets of the town, together with a festival dedicated to beans. This is actually a unique event that takes place in the streets of the town and celebrates history, traditions, emotions, and ideals. In this event history meets legend thus creating an unforgettable experience that gives to visitors the possibility to live the story of the town and its most interesting traditions, and also to meet the protagonists of the past. The most interesting and loved moment is the orange battle. According to tradition, in the past twice a year the feudatory gave a pot of beans to the poorest families of his land. They did not accept them and threw everything in the streets. Beans were also used during Carnival period: they were launched against "enemies". Then, girls started to throw oranges, flowers, and confetti from their terraces. They threw them to the boys they wanted to conquer. Boys answered in some ways to their provocations and so the traditional battle was “invented”.

The Carnival of Varallo (Vercelli) is one of the most important of Piedmont and has a very ancient mask called Marcantonio Carlavèe. A group of fourteen people represents the spirit of Carnival: there are the two main characters, King Marcantonio and his lady, Cecca. There are also guards and other noble characters. The programme is very rich: there are parades, exhibitions, seminars about Carnival, etc. The celebration starts on the day of the Epiphany, on the 6th January with a bonfire on the banks of Mastallone stream. Then there is the election of the Cecca, the queen of Carnival. The identity of Cecca is revealed just on the night of the ball called “Ballo della Cecca”. Carnival is celebrated in many ways: “Carnevalàa n’tla stràa” is a feast in the streets and the squares of Varallo. There is also a Palio, the typical competition among inhabitants. There are dances and everywhere there is fun. The weekend before Lent is the richest of events, for example the ball called “Bal d’la Lum”. On Mardi Gras people cook a typical dish called “paniccia”, a soup made with vegetables. This is one of the most ancient traditions of Carnival and in the past it was an occasion to let poor people eat well. The fire burning the puppet of Marcantonio closes the celebrations of Carnival.

In the province of Como, Schignano celebrates the Carnival with a great parade that represents two different groups of people: the richest people, boastful and vain, and the humblest people, that work hard to live. The richest ones have a very big belly that is a symbol of their wealth; their clothes are very coloured and decorated with necklaces, laces, and useless objects. They wear a wood mask, created by local artisans; they wear also a rich hat, with flowers, feathers and also small dolls. The others have a deformed body; their clothes are torn and tattered. They bring a basket full of old and dirty objects. Some of them bring also a broom (they hope to sweep away misfortune); a suitcase (the symbol of emigration), and a flask of wine (a consolation). They wear a wood mask, too, and dirty hats, often with ox horns. The parade is accompanied by music. When they arrive to the square of the town, one of the humblest protagonists of the parade is chosen to be burnt on a pyre. But he always succeeds in escaping. Then he is captured again and substituted with a puppet (called “carlisepp”), that is eventually burnt.

Carnival is celebrated also on the Alps. In some valleys of Trentino, there is the celebration of ancient rites, such as in Val di Fiemme, Val di Fassa, etc. In Grauno, in Val di Cembra, there are neither masks nor costumes. The protagonist of the Carnival is a pine. On Mardi Gras, the branches of the pine are cut. Then it is brought in the square of this small town and there all the virtues and vices of the inhabitants are told. In the evening, the tree is covered with straw and then brought to the so-called “Doss del Carneval” and planted in a very deep pit; eventually the last married man of the year sets fire to the tree and the bonfire can be seen from all points of the valley. In Madonna di Campiglio there is the celebration of the Asburgic Carnival: people recall the time of Emperor Francesco Giuseppe and his wife Sissi, when they spent their holidays at the feet of Brenta. There are wonderful balls in the beautiful Salone Hofer. In San Martino di Castrozza (in Valle del Primiero) on Mardi Gras there is the torchlight procession of ski masters; they arrive to the valley and light a great bonfire. They burn on it a puppet made of clothes and wood. It represents an evil lady and this is a ritual to send out bad luck.



In Valle d’Aosta, in Valle del Gran San Bernardo, there is “Coumba Freida” event. “Coumba Freida” means cold valley. This special Carnival has taken place since 1467, but was reorganized in 1800. The event includes a parade of masks and typical local costumes inspired to uniforms of French army. The face of people is covered by a mask (vesadjie). In the past it was a wood mask, now it is made of plastic. In Verrès, in Valle d’Aosta, Carnival is celebrated in the fortress that dominates the town, and people wear the ancient costumes of the nobles of the past.


In Moneglia (Genova) Carnival is the feast of pumpkin, according to an ancient popular legend. In the past two farmers always quarrelled because of a pumpkin plant grown on the border of their fields. Who did the pumpkins belong to? Carnival develops around the solution of this quarrel and inhabitants of Moneglia like to create several versions of the story.


In Grado, the isle in the homonymous lagoon in Friuli Venezia Giulia, on Thursday Gras there is the traditional run in the streets of the town of a steer decorated with bows. Children do love this event. To celebrate Carnival in Pordenone people organize performances in the ancient part of the town.


In Cento, in the province of Ferrara, there are beautiful parades. There is also a process to Tasi, the king of Carnival. He tries to defend himself with a will in which he criticizes events and protagonists of present time. A story tells that Tasi, that is Luigi Tasini, had to choose between his wife and a good glass of wine in an inn. He chose the wine. Before dying, he played a “poisonous” will in which he attacked the vices of people from Cento and other towns. The king of Carnival and Ragassä äd Buräg celebrate Carnival in the streets with children in Fidenza (Parma) with confetti, music, and cakes.


The celebration of the Carnival in Fano (Pesaro) was settled in 1347 and was inspired by a real event: the two most important families of the town reconciled, they were the Del Cassero and Da’ Carignano families. Every year, chocolates and candies are launched from allegoric carts during parades. There is a typical mask, called “vulon”. It represents the most important people of the town making a caricature of them. In Sarnano (Macerata) Carnival is a very funny moment.


In Viareggio (Lucca) there is one of the most famous Italian Carnivals with great parades. On the carts there are the caricatures of politicians, famous people from political and cultural world, and from show business. These carts are beautiful and attract many tourists every year. Bands coming from all over the world play folk music, among lights, colours, and people. In 2001 in Viareggio there was the inauguration of the so-called “Cittadella del Carnevale”, a great polyfunctional building dedicated to Carnival. Carnival in Arezzo is a very funny and exciting event with allegorical carts and parades of masks.

The most famous and beautiful carts of Carnival in Abruzzo are in Francavilla al Mare. There is also a competition that celebrates carnival: people who participate try to cook the biggest “cicirchiata” (a traditional and typical cake of this period). Carnival in Ascoli Piceno has a long tradition and there are many events, such as theatre performances.

In Ronciglione (Viterbo), a small town at the feet of Cimini Mountains, there is a competition among carts; there are parades with kings, ladies, and knights. Carnival has a long tradition as documents testify. The Carnival and its celebrations start after the bell of the town hall rings. The King of Carnival, with his knights, takes the rule of the town and receives the keys by the mayor. Then five days of fun and games start. There is an ancient horse competition: horses participate to this race in the streets of the town, but they are not led by jockeys. Eventually, the King of Carnival is condemned to death and buried. In Postarolo (Rieti) in the typical Carnival parade there is the nice donkey of “Zi Pietro” (Uncle Peter) that draws the allegorical carts.

In Sant’Eraclio di Foligno (Perugia) there is one of the most important Carnivals of Umbria. The celebration of Carnival was first organised in 1542 by friars belonging to ‘Olivetani di Mormonzone’, an abandoned monastery near the town. They wanted to give to common people their feast, since noble people had their own feast in their rich houses and palaces. In Gubbio people celebrate Carnival going masked through the streets and asking for money or cakes.

In Tufara (Campobasso), on Mardi Gras there is an ancient and famous rite, the so-called ‘Devil’s Masquerade’. This event is of Middle Age origin and is made of ancient propitiatory rites. A parade, made of three monks, the devil and two messengers bringing sickles (the symbol of death) go through the streets of the town. The devil is all covered by black goat leather and wears a horrible mask with horns. He continuously hits the stones of the streets with his iron hay-fork. Late in the evening, the parade reaches the walls of the castle and there a process is performed. Carnival is processed and eventually the puppet that represents Carnival is launched from the walls. The devil, still not satisfied by the punishment of Carnival, takes the puppet and launches it from the highest part of the mountain where the town is.

In Tricarico (Matera) Carnival is celebrated in an unusual way. Groups of young and adult people wear ancient costumes representing farmers, cows, and bulls. They go along the streets of the town ringing bells of different size. They want to represent the traditional transhumance from the plains to the sea that took place during spring. At the end of the day, spent having fun, the puppet representing Carnival is burnt. Carnival of Montescaglioso attracts tourists and visitors thanks to the nice traditions and the innovative events.

In Campania Carnival has many traditions. In Capua the celebration of Carnival starts when the mayor gives the keys of the town to the King of Carnival. Then the King makes his proclamation to the town and presents in an ironic manner all the bad and negative actions of rulers of Capua. In Pontelandolfo (Benevento), during Carnival time, people play a traditional game that is like a ‘cheese race’: people have to launch the cheese along a path and there are different teams. In Montemarano (Napoli), Punchinello is the protagonist of a show, called “Zeza”. This show is about the marriage between Don Nicola, a student from Calabria and Tolla (or Vicenzella). The father of Tolla, Punchinello, does not want this marriage because he is unconsciously jealous of his daughter. Instead his wife, Zeza, thinks that her daughter has to have fun. Eventually Punchinello has to accept the marriage. In Terzigno (Napoli), people celebrate Carnival with dances representing love in its several stages: the first meeting; than the courtship, made of smiles and winkings; the refusal by the woman; the new attempts by the man and eventually the engagement. Amalfi Coast celebrates Carnival: the most famous events are in Amalfi, Maiori, and Vietri sul Mare. There are parades of allegorical carts, masks, and theatre performances. In Amalfi there is a traditional typical performance called “La Zeza”: the inhabitants go through the streets of the town and sing and dance, while playing traditional music instruments. The most famous Carnival is the one in Maiori, that attracts masks from the entire province. Along the seaside there is the traditional parade of allegorical carts and masked people dance through the streets. The main protagonist is fun; visiting Maiori and living its Carnival is a way to live an exciting experience but also to relax and to enjoy the beauties of this territory.


In Puglia, there is the longest Carnival of the world, in Putignano (Bari). The celebration starts on the 26th December and ends on Mardi Gras. The typical mask is Farinella: he wears a coloured patchwork suit and small bells on the hat. In the past the suit was green and white (the colours of the town).

In Calabria, the most famous Carnival is the one of Castrovillari, a very funny and nice event with beautiful carts. This is a feast made of music and fun, celebrated eating sausages and drinking wine.


The ancient Carnival of Acireale (Catania) is considered the most beautiful of Sicily thanks to its beautiful carts made with papier-mâché and flowers. In Sciacca (Agrigento) Carnival is celebrated with masks and allegorical carts.


In Sardinia, in Oristano, Carnival is made of very ancient rites and traditions. It is a very important and loved feast made of magic rites, wealth and misery, sorrow and hope. To celebrate Carnival there is the performance of an ancient tournament, called Sartiglia, in which knights (with the face covered by a wood mask) try to hit some hanging stars.


Written by Stefania Maffeo Translation by Linda Liguori

 
 
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